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Treasure the island
Tragedy may be too strong a word, but it is certainly a sad irony, a missed opportunity, a shame: even restaurants that proudly splash the sauce madère over the pigeon and the sauce Périgueux over the quail, even restaurants that have AA and Michelin stars and have won awards for the best wine list in the UK often don’t have even a bottle of 5-, 10- or 15-year-old Bual or Malmsey on that list, let alone one of the exciting new Colheitas or thrilling venerable Soleras or Vintages. A great range of wines, of astonishing complexity, intensity, longevity and personality, is relegated to a sweetener for demi-glace. ...
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