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The Interview:Raymond Blanc, Chef/proprietor, Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons
When was your introduction to great wine? I was 17. I had no real cash, working part time here and there, and was earning about £50 a month. But I was walking past a restaurant in my little town of Besançon and it was about 12 o’clock. At this time something happens in a Frenchman’s stomach. I smelled aromas coming out of this restaurant, Le Pocker d’As, which is still there today. I could smell this complexity of flavours and so I had to go in. I asked the sommelier what the chef was cooking. He said roasted veal kidneys in a Rhône wine reduction, and so I ordered a half-bottle of Côte Rôtie from Guigal. It was the first time I’d paid so much money for a wine! ...

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