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Letters: In defence of Suolo
I write in response to the column by Nicolas Belfrage MW and Franco Ziliani in Harpers (9 September). As a winemaker, I absolutely respect everyone’s right to judge a wine organoleptically in their own way, and if the authors of the column feel that Tenuta di Argiano’s IGT Rosso Suolo wine (the 2002) has been ‘drowned in international-oak aromas’, then who am I to disagree, even though my winemaking style (if you can call it that) is to try to favour fruit flavours over those of wood, something I learnt from my winemaker father [Peter Vinding-Diers], who was recently described, in Monty Waldin’s Biodynamic Wines (Mitchell Beazley), as habitually using ‘less new wood than is found in the veneered dashboards of most company cars’. ...
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