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Dolcetto, amore mio
Nicolas Belfrage mw and Franco Ziliani look at the Italian market. The Italians may not be everybody’s cup of tea, or rather glass of wine. They have never made wines that are easy for punters to love: all those tannins, all that acidity, and the accent on vegetal or savoury rather than fruity flavours. The old cliché that Italian wine needs food is all too true for most Anglos. Perhaps that’s why Italian wine has never really caught on in the UK in the way that its appassionati deem that it should. Brits tend to drink their wines as beverages, like beer or whisky, and are not, on the whole, interested in having to seek out subtleties and nuances or taste combinations with various foods. The obvious upfront aromas and smooth textures of New World wines will do nicely for most occasions, and when something special is needed, there’s always France (or there was). ...
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