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Stein on French wine
Thinking I had burned my boats with The Guardian, I was surprised, some weeks ago now, to be contacted by a (perhaps desperate) news editor who wondered if I could write, by 6pm (it was then lunchtime) for the morrow’s edition, 400 words on Rick Stein, the cuddly ex-Oxonian adulterer who waffles on about food on BBC television. Stein has become an artless fool (he is not alone; why is it all these TV chefs insist on being so egregiously patronising? Only dear old Auntie Delia managed it authentically), but his pronouncements are, so it seems, noteworthy. However, in this instance it seemed to me that what he said was nothing so ignoble as a grotesque attempt, via the Radio Times, to drum up publicity for his new TV series. ...
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