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Short of perfection, by Neil Beckett
So deserved is talk of Burgundy’s Golden Age that one almost feels as if the famous figures from its first great flowering – the four Valois dukes, Philip the Bold and his successors, and even the Lady and the Unicorn – might step down from their canvasses and tapestries and take part in the next Trois Glorieuses. The 2005 vintage, sampled at some 20 en primeur tastings in London over the past several weeks, seems to be the high-point of the region’s renaissance, surpassing even the 1990, 1999 and 2002 vintages. ...

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